Black Corporation: Joseon [EN]: Chapter 848

848. The Empire’s Daily Life (7)

The rumors surrounding the Empress, Imperial Consorts, and Hyang’s ‘hot nights’ spread quickly and discreetly throughout Gyeongbok Palace.

-They say the Emperor had incredible sleeping garments made for the Empress and Imperial Consorts!

-They say that if you wear those garments, even an ugly woman can become a fairy!

The rumors circulating among the court ladies (female officials, palace women who received rank in the inner court) and merchants eventually reached the ears of the officials. And those who loved to talk, regardless of their status, discussed these mysterious sleeping garments.

Various stories emerged, but they all ended similarly.

“His Majesty the Emperor is no ordinary man…”

“I’d like to see what those sleeping garments look like, even just once.”

And these rumors naturally reached the ears of the ‘Gyeongbok Palace Mafia,’ and the women belonging to the Mafia immediately sought out the Empress and Imperial Consorts.

The Empress and Imperial Consorts, having heard the requests of the women in the Mafia, brought out the sleeping garments in question with expressions that were half embarrassment and half pride.

They were embarrassed because it was something too shameful to show to others carelessly, and they were proud because their husband had even made such sleeping garments for them.

“Oh my…”

“Oh my goodness…”

The women’s eyes sparkled as they looked at the full set of the sleeping garments in question.

And, as the head tailor had predicted, the Empress’s order was issued to the Sanguiwon (Royal Costume Department).

Once again, the French merchant made a fortune, and the tailors of the Sanguiwon received generous rewards.

* * *

The sleeping garments, whose existence leaked through the Gyeongbok Palace Mafia, soon became fashionable among women of all classes.

Women from noble or wealthy families purchased sleeping garments made of silk and composed of stoka [a type of fine fabric] and lace imported directly from France, while those who could not afford it bought items made of cotton.

However, even cotton items made of truly high-quality cotton were quite expensive.

Therefore, it became fashionable for women to form groups to purchase luxury sleeping garments.

This led to the creation of women-only groups called ‘Sleeping Garment Clubs.’

As the sleeping garments made by Hyang became a huge hit, unexpected victims emerged: the Jurchens.

The newly popular sleeping garments were soon labeled ‘Hu Sleeping Garments.’ This name was given because they were modeled after Hu clothing [clothing from northern nomadic tribes].

However, those who did not know the origin, especially men, said this:

“Huh~. I thought the Jurchens were barbarians who didn’t know anything about romance, but they’re surprisingly romantic!”

Every time they heard these rumors, the Jurchens beat their chests in frustration.

“I’m telling you! Those Hu sleeping garments may look similar, but they’re not our clothes!”

“Just let me see those Hu sleeping garments! I’ll tear them all up!”

There were those who wore expressions of sympathy when rumors about these Jurchens circulated.

These were the residents who lived near the Soyang River and Nakdong River.

This was because they had a similar experience due to the song that Hyang had spread in the past.

* * *

In this state, the Hu sleeping garments would have only been known as stimulating sleepwear. However, it was the courtesans [gisaengs] who turned the Hu sleeping garments into a bombshell in the Empire’s fashion world.

Although they had escaped their status as commoners as a result of the Gyeongjang [a series of reforms], there were subtle restrictions on the gisaengs.

Of course, there were not only restrictions but also special privileges, but the human mind tends to focus more on restrictions than privileges.

This was why the gisaengs’ personalities and clothing were very provocative.

It was these provocative gisaengs who began to wear Hu sleeping garments as outerwear.

Even for gisaengs, wearing Hu sleeping garments as outerwear was problematic, so the gisaengs placed orders with their regular tailors.

As a result of the gisaengs and tailors putting their heads together, a new type of Hu sleeping garment was created.

The first thing that was made was a jeogori (short jacket) to be worn over the Hu sleeping garment. In line with the trend of women’s jeogori becoming shorter, the jeogori worn over the Hu sleeping garment was also very short.

It wasn’t just the length that was shortened. The goreum (coat strings) disappeared, and like the Hu sleeping garment, it was fastened with buttons. Similarly, the dongjeong (white collar) and git (collar) were changed to a shape that wrapped around the neck—a kind of Chinese collar—creating the effect of making the gisaeng’s neck look thinner and longer.

In addition, the jeogori and Hu sleeping garment used the same color or completely contrasting colors to express individuality.

However, from now on, it was constantly a subject of controversy.

The Hu sleeping garment did not have a chest covering from the beginning, and the sides were slit slightly above the middle of the thigh.

Therefore, no matter how much the jeogori was worn, the gisaeng’s body line was revealed as it was. In particular, the side slit in the leg area was the biggest problem.

This was because even if it was covered with stoka, the line of the leg was revealed as it was. In addition, there was a high possibility that sokgot (underpants) would be visible if you were even a little careless.

To solve this, very short shorts-shaped underpants were worn, but even then, about half of the thigh was exposed.

In addition, the Hu sleeping garment made of silk with all kinds of gold leaf, silver leaf, and embroidery was very expensive.

However, when gisaengs, whose beauty was basic, wore them and went out on the street, the effect was outstanding.

When a rickshaw carrying a gisaeng wearing Hu sleeping garments for going out and wearing a fancy jeonmo (a type of hat) or unfolding a floral parasol passed by, everyone on the street turned their heads.

In particular, some of the more provocative gisaengs sat cross-legged in the rickshaw.

And the effect was fatal.

As effective as it was, the backlash was strong.

-The gisaengs’ clothes are ruining the customs, so we must crack down on them!

The officials were shocked by the flood of memorials that had been pouring in for the first time in a long time, and Hyang clicked his tongue inwardly.

‘Tsk! I thought it looked good…’

Anyway, Hyang asked the ministers for their opinions.

“What do you think?”

The first to answer Hyang’s question was Kim Jong-seo.

“Gisaengs must have not only singing and dancing! They must be proficient in poetry, calligraphy, and painting, and they must also have good speaking skills. However, above all, you can’t leave out sex appeal. Just as flowers show off their beauty, gisaengs also show off their beauty and sex appeal, so I don’t think it’s something to stop.”

The ministers, as well as Hyang, nodded at Kim Jong-seo’s words.

‘As expected, Jeoljae [Kim Jong-seo’s pen name]!’

While everyone was admiring, Hyang came to a conclusion.

“I also think that Lord Jeoljae’s opinion is reasonable. It is something that the gisaengs did to show off their beauty, and unless they are trying to commit a crime using it, I don’t think there is any need to stop it. They said it ruins the customs, but what is the difference between humans and animals? Isn’t it the ability to restrain themselves?”

In this way, all the petitions that found fault with the gisaengs’ clothes were rejected.

* * *

As the issue of gisaengs’ Hu sleeping garments for going out was resolved by Hyang, the gisaengs wore Hu sleeping garments for going out without hesitation.

Thanks to this, the streets of famous towns and cities known for their sensuality began to be filled with people watching the gisaengs in their colorful clothes.

It wasn’t just the people of the Empire. People flocked from Ming, Japan, and Europe after hearing the rumors.

And the money these tourists spent on food and lodging became another source of income.

And, as time passed, similar clothes began to become popular in the red-light districts and brothels of Ming and Japan.

Europe was the same. Among those who came after hearing the rumors, there were many painters and sculptors.

They sketched the gisaengs’ clothes and returned to Europe to create paintings and sculptures, which spread a new trend in high society.

Styling their hair like the women of the Empire, wearing Hu sleeping garments, and wearing veils or jeonmo became the basic attire for upper-class women attending banquets.

* * *

As time passed, Hu sleeping garments for going out, which only gisaengs wore, began to become popular among ordinary women.

Of course, it wasn’t as unconventional and provocative as what the gisaengs wore. To be precise, it was somewhere in between the original Hu clothing and the gisaengs’ Hu sleeping garments.

As these Hu sleeping garments slowly became popular, something else emerged: women’s pants.

The women who created and popularized women’s pants were female officials called Yeori [female officials].

The women who first passed the civil service examination and entered the government wore skirts layered in accordance with etiquette.

However, it was not long before the Yeori realized that these layered skirts were an obstacle to their work.

This was because they had to keep moving while not only sitting still but also searching for data or managing the receipt and disbursement of documents.

In particular, skirts became a nuisance when going out on business.

Long distances could be covered by using iron horses [trains], but if the distance was moderate or far from the railway station, they had to ride horses.

Of course, there was a women’s riding suit that was worn over the skirt, called malgun. However, the method of layering it over the layered skirts could not be said to be comfortable even as a euphemism.

In the end, what the female officials, who had more and more work to do outside, chose was a combination of riding pants and boots.

Riding pants made of slightly thicker and tougher fabric than ordinary riding pants and boots modeled after cavalry boots satisfied the Yeori.

And it went well with the dansam (a type of robe) that was given as the Yeori’s official uniform.

And, at some point, it became common for the Yeori to wear riding pants even when working indoors.

As riding pants became commonplace, riding pants also gradually became more diverse.

The width of the pants narrowed or increased, and not only white but also various colors began to be used.

And, when the women of Yeoryeom wore Hu sleeping garments, they chose these riding pants instead of stoka.

As it was combined with Hu sleeping garments, the riding pants became narrower. And the boots, which were a perfect match, became longer and tighter at the same time.

In addition, the high heel, which is the biggest feature of cavalry boots, became even higher.

At some point, women realized the advantages of high heels.

-It makes you look taller and makes your body look prettier.

This advantage was maximized when wearing Hu sleeping garments that revealed the body as it was, and before they knew it, women who boasted their style began combining Hu sleeping garments, pants, and boots as their official attire.

As the attire of the women of Yeoryeom changed in this way, the attire of the gisaengs began to change again.

Unlike the women of Yeoryeom, they began to wear short boots or danghye (Korean traditional shoes) with high heels.

The reason why the gisaengs wore short boots or danghye with high heels was to emphasize their sexual appeal.

-Thanks to the high heels, the calves look thinner because they are tiptoeing.

-It naturally lifts the hips and makes the back look better.

-When you walk, coquetry naturally flows out.

In this way, the clothes of the women of the Empire began to change more and more rapidly.

Hyang, who received the report, looked embarrassed.

“Are they already making imitations of high heels? This is not my work…”

Hyang, who had an embarrassed expression, looked out the window.

“Has it changed to the point where it can move on its own?”

At the beginning of the Gyeongjang, society hardly moved unless Sejong or Hyang stepped in and dragged it out. But now, society and people have changed to the point where they either change on their own or react immediately if Hyang adds just a little seasoning.