Black Label [EN]: Chapter 166

166. Self-Determined Value

For several days, an unusually harsh chill blew in with the autumn wind.

The layers of clothing people donned gradually thickened, and the wind’s bite against the skin grew steadily colder.

It was proof that the year, which had seemed to begin only a short while ago, was once again rushing toward its end.

The time that had felt so slow at the beginning of the year now seemed to be accelerating rapidly.

Like a ball rolling down a hill, it was flowing faster and faster.

Occasionally, when the thought that the day of adding another year to my age was not far off, or when I thought about the shadows of wrinkles etched on my parents’ faces growing deeper and more pronounced, I would often become sentimental.

Time flows on relentlessly.

Knowing this all too well, I lived fiercely, trying to ward off laziness.

I did my best not to waste even a single minute or second.

“You’re really something, really something…”

Song Director shook his head repeatedly, as if unable to comprehend.

“What is it now?”

He then pushed the horn-rimmed glasses he was wearing onto his forehead and continued in a gentle tone.

“How can you churn out so many designs in the midst of such a busy schedule? I guarantee, no matter how talented a designer is, they won’t be able to keep up with your work rate.”

In Song Director’s hand was a file neatly organized with the diagrams of the designs produced so far.

From T-shirts to jackets, pants, shoes, bags, and so on. Regardless of the type, as soon as a good design came to mind, it was immediately transferred into a diagram.

The number of diagrams produced in this way amounted to a whopping 40 or so.

After examining the diagrams for a while, Song Director casually placed the file he was holding on the side table and continued.

“Actually, some of the designs feel a bit avant-garde, but I think mixing these designs in was a great choice. To be honest, I wanted to avoid filling the product lineup with only overly commercial clothes as much as possible. From my subjective point of view, it’s like the avant-garde designs create a strange balance.”

I could understand what Song Director was trying to say, and I could roughly guess which designs he considered ‘avant-garde’.

“That’s right. You see it perfectly. About ten of the designs you saw, Director Song, were diagrams drawn with special customers with extremely niche tastes in mind, not general customers.”

Wasn’t this season the beginning of taking the first step as a premium brand?

It was necessary to release some products that contained the designer’s clear subjectivity and a series of ‘*Metaphors*’.

Enthusiasts with niche tastes do not like premium brands offering fast-fashion style products such as ‘Uniqlo’, ‘Zara’, or ‘Diodano’.

They are enthusiastic about difficult and unique clothes that make them wonder, “How am I supposed to match and wear this?” when they look at the clothes hanging on the rack.

They are also enthusiastic about special clothes that contain the brand’s identity, the designer’s message, and the agony of creation.

Of course, the interpretation and analysis are up to each individual, and as with all creative works in the world, it’s more about ‘interpreting the dream than the dream itself’.

“Anyway, thanks for all your hard work. I’ll start the sample production for your designs this afternoon.”

“Thank you. Is the preparation for the products pretty much done now?”

“Of course. We’ve already filled up the number of products to be released this season. With about forty more added here, I’m not sure if we’ll be able to show all the products within the given model walking time.”

Now, there was only one thing left to do regarding product production.

If an error occurred during the process of producing samples of the confirmed designs, it could be seen as only a simple task of correcting and supplementing the error.

If the work related to product production is almost finished, doesn’t that mean that the season preparation itself is slowly coming to an end?

No. Unfortunately, there are still many things that haven’t even reached the starting stage.

The lookbook photoshoot, the planning and composition of the runway stage to be presented at Paris Fashion Week, hadn’t even properly started yet.

If there was one hopeful matter, it would be that there was no work left to be done directly.

All you have to do is push the experts in each field and press the button once.

When the approval comes up, carefully review it, add comments, or give approval.

Soon, Song Director snapped his fingers once and reopened his mouth.

“Ah! By the way, what about the tickets to France? If you haven’t booked them, tell the office staff today…”

“I can’t order them to do such trivial tasks when everyone is already busy. Knowing that, I booked them in advance. It’s a morning flight next Monday.”

The end of work in Korea was only a signal that the time to start work in France was imminent.

It was time to return to France, where Janel House was located.

To be with Karl Lagerbelt, a designer who is nothing less than a living history of modern fashion, in his last season.

* * *

Several more days passed.

As soon as the samples of the confirmed designs were completed one by one, many things began to be processed quickly.

The date and schedule for the lookbook photoshoot were set exactly, and at the same time, the marketing department revealed the location of the lookbook photoshoot to the press.

[Brand Wall Flower official says, lookbook photoshoot location, “This lookbook photoshoot location is a place that no brand has ever tried before.”]

[Special column, photoshoot in zero gravity space? About the brand Wall Flower’s unconventional march.]

Was it because important issues were constantly being discussed? Or was it because today’s meeting was the last meeting that Jae Seung, who was practically the owner, could attend?

The atmosphere of the meeting was as serious as ever. Just as silence was flowing into the conference room, Jae Seung, who was sitting at the head of the table and reviewing documents, carefully opened his mouth.

“About the public announcement of this lookbook photoshoot location, wouldn’t it have been better to release a short trailer video of about one or two minutes of runtime together?”

It was a question he asked because he was personally curious, even though he had already approved the matter when the report came up.

Soon, the strategy and planning team leader, who was sitting not far away, carefully replied.

“It is a matter that you may think so, but it was judged that it would be better to pre-release the photoshoot location to attract attention once, and then sequentially release a short trailer video and making film when it is about to be forgotten, so we reported and proceeded that way.”

“Why?”

“Because it is a one-time topic anyway. Since there is a limit to the degree to which attention can be drawn, the opinion was that it would be better to be mentioned several times in small ways.”

Just as Jae Seung was about to answer, “I see. I understand. Thank you for your hard work,” Director Song, who was sitting right next to him, carefully intervened.

“You’ve already been briefed on the lookbook photoshoot schedule, right? I’m wondering if the president intends to attend.”

“Intention to attend?”

“Yes. The photoshoot location is 7,000m above sea level, but that doesn’t mean we can meet in the sky? The gathering place is in California, so it seems like a hassle to attend in person, so I’m trying to hear what the president is thinking…”

“It’s a lookbook photoshoot, so I have to attend no matter how busy I am. There’s no need for the company to send a separate official letter; I’ll have it delivered to Janel House in advance as soon as I arrive in France on Monday.”

The meeting proceeded quickly. This time, the agenda was about marketing through celebrities’ personal SNS [Social Networking Services] or personal web pages.

It was an agenda about aggressive marketing using the stars who hoped to join designer Lee’s faction, that is, the members of ‘Lee Gang’.

“I think it would be okay to slightly reveal the photoshoot site through the personal SNS, including the Instagram of the models who participated in the photoshoot? At a blurry level where the new products of this season seem to be visible. I’m sure it will be easy to become a hot topic.”

Perhaps because useful opinions were coming out in succession, the heat of the meeting was gradually increasing.

Perhaps the attitude of decision makers, including Jae Seung and Director Song, also played a part.

They listened to all opinions with attention so that employees could freely express their opinions.

As the meeting was nearing its end, ‘pricing’ based on the completed samples began.

The initially set price has plenty of room for modification for various reasons, but it never undergoes a large change.

Perhaps it was the most important agenda of today’s meeting.

“First of all, the price range of general products will be structured in a form that is not much different from general premium brands.”

“President. Can you mention a specific brand? Some of them are low-priced brands…”

At the employee’s words, Jae Seung cut off the words with a cold expression.

“Um, I’m sorry to say this, but I think I need to point something out, so I’ll have to cut it off for a moment. You should never attach the modifier ‘cheap’ to designer brand clothes. In fact, no designer would express the price range of their clothes as ‘cheap’. There is a good expression ‘inexpensive’, which means ‘not expensive’. Attaching the modifier ‘cheap’ to a design that contains a lot of agony and thought may be a considerable rudeness.”

Soon, the female employee who was pointed out nodded once and replied, “I’m sorry. I’ll keep that in mind.”

Jae Seung, who nodded a few times as if satisfied, began to continue his words again.

“First of all, I want to set the price range for products that do not belong to the premium label as a concept of ‘inexpensive’. I want to accurately calculate the cost, labor process, and product value, but form an inexpensive price range so that as many customers as possible can have realistic purchase opportunities.”

This time, Director Song intervened.

“Premium label? Are there any products you have in mind separately? It would be nice if you could explain it in more detail…”

When Jae Seung gestured to the female employee next to him, the female employee immediately sent a photo onto the screen on the wall of the conference room.

It was a photo in which the photos of fifteen products to be released under the name of this season’s Premium Label were edited to a certain size and interval.

Ten of the fifteen products Jae Seung mentioned were ‘avant-garde designs’ that Jae Seung had directly created, and the remaining five were avant-garde designs that designers belonging to the design team designed but passed Jae Seung’s strict screening and joined this season’s lineup.

To put it more easily and simply, all fifteen products could be said to be avant-garde designs.

While everyone in the room was busy looking at the photos on the screen, Jae Seung added again.

“As I said before, we want to release the products you are looking at now under the title ‘Premium label’. We want to set the price range at five times that of general products.”

Soon, there was a stir in the room.

If a price of 300,000 won [~250 USD] is set for a muscle fit T-shirt, the price of one premium label T-shirt would be 1.5 million won [~1250 USD]?

Moreover, in the case of women’s handbags or jackets, which are originally in the high price range, the degree was excessive. There was room for the price to soar excessively.

As expected, the first to convey the meaning of dissuasion was Director Song, who could express his opinion most comfortably.

“Five times seems too much? The price is too high?”

Soon, others also began to take courage one by one and express their concerns.

Even the original authors of the designs, who could earn a considerable royalty income each time the product was sold, were expressing their concerns.

However, Jae Seung’s will was firm.

“No. We’re going to go as is.”

Soon, Director Song spoke in a low voice as if whispering.

“Hey, President. Don’t do that…”

“It won’t change no matter how much you persuade me.”

“What’s with the guts?”

Soon, Jae Seung shrugged his shoulders once and replied.

“Many people already recognize Wall Flower as one of the premium brands, right? And the fifteen products I selected are ‘works’ that completely exclude commerciality and focus on artistry, right?”

“I know what you mean. Okay, good. What if only a lot of inventory is left after releasing it like that?”

“That’s unlikely, but even if those fifteen products are not sold, it’s not a big problem. There are about 150 other products, right? Isn’t that right?”

Jae Seung, who attracted attention by saying, “Designers,” in one breath, began to continue his words in a serious tone.

“Isn’t there a brand in this world that forms a similar price range to the premium label products I have set?”

“No, but that’s not it…”

“There will probably be dozens. First of all, it means that the price range is not just unrealistic, right? Then I’ll ask you one more thing. Do you think Wall Flower is a brand that is worse than that brand?”

“……”

“The pricing of the first season also affects the future brand value. If it doesn’t sell in this season, we can reflect on it and do our best to work harder. In the next season, we can think more and push ourselves so that we can be recognized by the public as having that much value.”

Jae Seung, who finished speaking, looked around everyone in the room and added.

“You have to set the value for your art yourself. If the creator stipulates it as 100 million [currency unspecified, implying a high value], it actually becomes 100 million. I have no intention of bending this opinion, so I will finish this agenda here and receive a report on the price set later.”

It was a somewhat extreme decision, but as Jae Seung maintained a stubbornly strong attitude, no further objections were raised.

Everyone was just hoping that the current decision would benefit everyone.