Black Corporation: Joseon [EN]: Chapter 334

334. Fashion Revolution (2)

As more ranches sprang up across Joseon and more Jurchens pledged allegiance, the number of people involved in animal husbandry gradually increased.

In addition, as Joseon’s economy grew, the consumption of meat by its people also increased rapidly.

With these active interactions, private ranches operated by individuals began to flourish alongside the state-run ranches.

As the number of ranches increased, so did the workload for certain individuals: the Chakhogun (捉虎軍) [Tiger Hunters], who hunted tigers and other wild animals, and general hunters.

* * *

As meat consumption increased, so did the availability of by-products like organs, leather, and horns.

Joseon’s people proved resourceful in utilizing these by-products.

Across Joseon, new meat dishes emerged, starting with local sundae [Korean sausage] variations tailored to regional tastes. Accessories and household goods were crafted from horns and leather.

Area 51 and its affiliated royal workshops spearheaded the creation of these accessories and household goods.

Beginning with belt decorations made from cow horns, various products were developed, but the most popular item recently was gloves.

Finger gloves made of well-tanned pigskin with cotton cloth or silk lining were highly sought after by the wealthy for their excellent fit.

As the royal workshop produced and sold these popular items, their financial records showed substantial income and expenses.

“But, you know… the amount of cowhide consumed is significantly less than the amount purchased?”

Sejong, reviewing the books, pointed out the discrepancy to Hyang.

Hyang immediately responded, “We are gathering materials to make shoes, Your Majesty.”

“Shoes? Still, the amount seems excessive.”

“There is a large quantity to produce. They are military boots.”

“Military boots? Are these the shoes worn by soldiers?”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

Sejong pondered for a moment. “What do these shoes look like?”

“They are similar to Mokhwa (木靴) [wooden boots] and Suhwaja (水靴子) [water boots], Your Majesty.”

Sejong stroked his beard, considering Hyang’s answer.

After a moment, Sejong asked, “Would it be better for me to change the law, or for you to change the design (形)?”

Hyang replied without hesitation, “With all due respect, it would be better to change the law. There are several reasons…”

“Ugh….”

As Hyang began to elaborate, Sejong groaned.

‘This rascal…,’ Sejong thought to himself, sorting out the situation.

“Regardless, even if I were to grant your wish, the officials would not simply let it go. You will need to explain it directly to them.”

“…Yes, Father.”

Hyang bowed his head, answering Sejong, but inwardly grumbled, ‘Ah, damn it! I thought I could get away with this easily!’

A few days later, Sejong raised the issue of military boots at a court meeting.

“…Therefore, the Crown Prince intends to produce Hyeokhwa (革靴) [leather boots] for use by soldiers and officers. Let us discuss this.”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

With Sejong observing, the officials and Hyang exchanged opinions.

“The biggest concerns are the budget and the design. Thanks to the increased meat consumption, cowhide and pigskin are more readily available, but they are still not inexpensive. Supplying them to tens of thousands of officers and soldiers could strain the budget.”

Kim Jeom’s remark prompted an immediate response from Hyang. “Leather shoes are durable and can be worn for a long time. They also provide superior protection for the legs of soldiers and officers.”

“But, the cost…”

As Kim Jeom continued to emphasize the budget issue, Hyang interjected, “When soldiers go into training or battle, don’t they wear Darogi [thick leather socks]? Consider this as the country simply providing those.”

At the time, Joseon soldiers wore thick leather socks called Darogi and Mituree [straw sandals] to protect their feet during training or battles.

“I understand.”

Kim Jeom waved the white flag at Hyang’s remark.

As Kim Jeom stepped down, Heo Jo stepped forward. “According to your description, the military boots to be supplied sound similar to Mokhwa or Suhwaja. However, existing laws restrict the indiscriminate wearing of Mokhwa or Suhwaja by soldiers.”

According to a decree added in the 2nd year of Sejong’s reign, Janghwa-style [high boot style] Mokhwa and Suhwaja were restricted to the upper class. This was why Sejong had questioned whether to change the law in their earlier conversation.

Hyang immediately countered, “Regarding that, firstly, while they may resemble Mokhwa and Suhwaja, the materials and design are completely different. In fact, they are not Mokhwa or Suhwaja at all, but military boots. Therefore, they do not violate the law.”

“That’s true, but…”

Heo Jo smacked his lips and trailed off. As Hyang pointed out, it would be difficult to argue that the boots were too similar when they were clearly distinct.

Seeing Heo Jo’s hesitation, Hyang continued, “Secondly, when people have more money, they naturally seek better and more comfortable things. It is human nature (人之常情) [a common sentiment]. If we uphold the law while others break it, will the people follow? What needs to be changed must be changed. If the Sadaebu [scholar-officials] wish to be respected, they must earn it through their actions and virtue, not their attire. Is that not following the way of the sages?”

“….”

Heo Jo fell silent at Hyang’s words. With no further objections, Sejong concluded.

“Let us test the military boots that the Crown Prince has designed and then decide whether to implement them throughout the army.”

“I will obey your command!”

The historian who recorded these events added the following.

…So, when the King made his decision, all the officials, great and small, followed.

The historian continues.

The Crown Prince’s eloquence is sharper than any famous sword in the world. The future is frightening. Even now, the mere sound of him clicking his tongue sends shivers down my spine….

* * *

Having received Sejong’s permission, Hyang gathered not only the Gatbachi [shoemakers] belonging to the royal workshop but also those from in and around Hanseong [Seoul].

“So…. We need to make military boots. You will have to work hard. In return, I will compensate you fairly.”

The Gatbachi who came from outside bowed and replied, “How could we doubt Your Highness’s word? We will do our best to make them.”

“I’m counting on you. Then…. Eunuch.”

“Yes, Your Highness.”

At Hyang’s gesture, the eunuch who was waiting brought in the Gwaedo [design drawing] and hung it up.

Hyang, using a pointer to indicate the design, addressed the Gatbachi. “These are the shoes you will be making. Come closer, take a look, and ask any questions you may have.”

The Gatbachi approached and carefully examined the paintings, then began to ask Hyang questions.

“Your Highness, the shape is similar to Mokhwa, but is the sole the same as Jinshin [oiled leather shoes]?”

Hyang nodded. “That’s right. The shape is similar, but we use leather soaked in oil, and the sole is studded like Jinshin. Is that difficult to make?”

The Gatbachi shook their heads. “No. It’s not difficult at all.”

“Is that so?”

At their answer, Hyang turned the paper over, revealing the next design. The Gatbachi’s eyes widened.

“What is this?”

“These are boots for cavalrymen.”

“The shape is very unique.”

“But, they will be the best shoes for cavalrymen. Is it difficult?”

“The shape is a bit unfamiliar, but I think we can make it with a little effort.”

* * *

Hyang ordered three types of military boots to be made: two types of Janghwa [high boots] and one type of Danhwa [low boots]. Janghwa was for infantry and cavalry, and Danhwa was for the navy.

All three types were designed to be waterproof through the use of leather soaked in oil.

Studs were 박고 [embedded] on the front and back heels, and iron plates similar to horseshoes were 박고 [embedded] on the back heel to ensure durability and prevent slipping.

Using leather soaked in oil and 박고 [embedding] studs on the sole was not unfamiliar to the Gatbachi.

It was already common for the Sadaebu [scholar-officials], as well as commoners with some money, to wear leather shoes.

And, because of the rainy season in Joseon and the roads that turned into mudflats as soon as the 해동기 [thawing season] came, the Sadaebu wore Jinshin regardless of gender during that time.

Jinshin—sometimes called Jingshin—made of leather soaked in sesame oil for more than a month and 박고 [embedding] studs on the sole did not slip even in mudflats, and mud did not 묻지 [stick].

Among the two types of Janghwa made in this way, the Janghwa worn by 창검병 [spearmen] and 총포병 [gunners] was in the style of the Soviet army during World War II.

“The German ones are 멋있지만 [cool], but they’re 작살나잖아 [ruined] in the winter.”

Knowing the winters of Joseon and Liaodong, which were second to none when it came to being 지랄 [awful], Hyang decided on the Soviet-style Janghwa design. The spacious Soviet-style Janghwa made it very easy to insert insulation.

However, the highlight of this Janghwa was the Janghwa that would be supplied to the cavalry.

Both the Janghwa worn by infantry and the Janghwa for cavalry had heels.

And, the Gatbachi had some difficulty with this part. Until then, the soles of the shoes that people wore were one piece. To be exact, it was a flat single plate. Usually, neither ordinary shoes nor Mokhwa had heels.

However, all the shoes that Hyang newly made had heels. The infantry Janghwa and Danhwa had heels made of solid wood about 7 할 (about 2.5cm) [approximately 1 inch] thick, and the cavalry Janghwa had heels as high as 1 치 5 할 (about 5cm) [approximately 2 inches].

The cavalry Janghwa that Hyang made was the Joseon version of cowboy boots.

* * *

In the 21st century, Hyang, who ran away from home to build a ship with 양덕 [Westerners], met many 양덕 [Westerners] in the United States. When Hyang learned about 덕질 [fandom] from 양덕 [Westerners], he also learned about cowboy boots.

“Hey, Jinho! People often call these boots cowboy boots or western boots, but to be precise, they should be called Spanish boots. And, these Spanish boots are the ultimate cavalry boots.”

Just before returning to Korea, a 양덕 [Westerner] explained in detail the functionality of cowboy boots to Hyang, who was choosing cowboy boots as a souvenir.

-The pointed toe, like a blade, makes it easy to put your foot in the stirrup.

-The space created by the high heel securely fixes the foot to the stirrup’s crossbar. By providing solid support for the foot, it reduces unnecessary loss of power when charging.

“The reason why high heels were popular in Europe was to avoid the poop on the streets, but men’s high heels should be seen as a continuation of the tradition of knights and cavalry!”

“Is that official (Official)?”

“…No.”

* * *

The military boots made in this way caught the attention of ordinary people as the soldiers wore them.

The shiny Janghwa coated with oil and the military uniforms that revealed the figure attracted the attention of men and women alike.

“That looks 괜찮아 [good].”

These favorable reactions from the people strongly boosted the soldiers’ pride.

Not only pride but also functionally, the newly 지급받은 [issued] military uniforms and military boots were quite 괜찮아 [good]. It took some effort to spread 짚 [straw] or put cotton cloth on the bottom of the shoes when walking long distances, but it gave them a sense of psychological stability that they were protecting their feet more than when they were just wearing Mituree [straw sandals].

In fact, a steel plate was inserted into the toe of the Janghwa in preparation for any eventuality. The purpose was to minimize damage from accidents that could occur while carrying heavy objects, including shells.

However, what caught everyone’s attention was the cavalry Janghwa worn by the cavalry. As the heel became higher, the back naturally straightened, and the chest had to be spread. As a result, it naturally created a tall height and a confident posture.

Before long, new orders poured into Gatbachi all over Joseon.

“Can you make shoes similar to cavalry Janghwa?”