Black Corporation: Joseon [EN]: Chapter 336

336. Fashion Revolution (4)

Hyang’s ‘Get Rid of the Topknot Plan’ ultimately went back to square one.

Because of this, Hyang had to redesign the military hat.

“The hat has to be tall because topknots exist… Military hats from the Napoleonic era are too much, and the Byeolgigun [Special Skills Force] military hats are a bit old-fashioned… The Korean Empire military hats have too much of a Japanese feel….”

Of course, if you delved a little deeper, both Japan and the Korean Empire had modeled their military hats after European ones.

They had lowered the height of the famous Shako hats from the Napoleonic Wars era and reworked the simplified kepis [a type of military cap] once again.

However, what Hyang, from the 21st century, was familiar with was the ‘damn Japanese military hat,’ so she felt a sense of aversion.

After much deliberation and rummaging through her memories, Hyang was able to choose a design she liked.

It was the hat worn by Australian soldiers during ceremonies.

It was similar to a cowboy hat called the ‘Anzac army slouch hat.’ Or, from a different perspective, it was a more modernized version of the hats worn by the Three Musketeers.

Having acquired the technology to make felt cloth through the naturalized Jurchens, Hyang used it to create military hats.

“This is pretty good?”

The hats, made of dark green felt for infantry and red for cavalry, received favorable reviews from the soldiers. In particular, folding the right brim up to the body and attaching a magpie’s tail feather was met with unanimous praise.

Having finished the uniforms for the Army Garrison, Hyang had to deliberate over the navy hats.

“The Popeye hat I know is impossible because of the topknot… Then….”

Hyang once again diligently searched through her military enthusiast memories.

“This time, it’s Russia!”

Hyang chose the sailor cap used by the Russian Navy during the Imperial Russian era—similar to the one worn by Donald Duck.

Of course, this sailor cap was for sailors, and naval officers were given peaked caps similar to those worn by captains of civilian ships, including 21st-century yachts.

“The navy officer’s hat is too low on the crown… Damn topknots! There are so few options!”

Hyang didn’t stop complaining, but the people who actually received the newly designed uniforms, boots, and hats were very satisfied.

This positive feedback was especially prevalent in the navy, as the army and navy were completely separated through military reforms, necessitating distinctiveness.

And, although Hyang grumbled that they weren’t stylish, the soldiers who received the hats actually had a very good reaction.

“The reaction is very good!”

“Is that so? That’s a relief.”

Hyang, having received the report that the soldiers’ reaction was very good, let out a sigh of relief.

* * *

As the new uniforms, boots, and hats of new design were supplied by Hyang’s work, civilian clothing also gradually began to change.

As mentioned before, Hanboks [traditional Korean clothing], which used to be worn loosely, gradually began to reveal the body’s lines, and shoes with high heels began to become popular.

And, as the culmination of such men’s fashion, hats began to change.

Instead of the balip [a type of bamboo hat] made of blackened bamboo, which had been the trend until recently, black gat [traditional Korean hat] made of horsehair, which was light and sleek, began to gain popularity rapidly for nearly 100 years. While the noblemen favored hats made of horsehair, commoners began to make and wear various shapes of hats using felt cloth.

Just as Westerners who visited Joseon [historical Korean kingdom] during the 19th-century Age of Imperialism had described it as the ‘country of hats,’ the people of Joseon were knowledgeable about hats. There was no way that such Joseon people would miss the opportunity, and soon, all sorts of hats overflowed throughout Joseon.

* * *

It wasn’t just men’s clothing that was changing.

Women’s clothing also began to change little by little.

Starting with the Queen, the shape of the wonsam (圓衫) [a ceremonial overcoat] worn by the women of the Inner Court began to change little by little.

The wonsam, which boasted a generous fit like men’s Hanbok, gradually began to cling to the body. In particular, a string was attached to the open side to reveal the waistline.

It wasn’t just the wonsam that changed. The chima jeogori [traditional Korean dress consisting of a skirt and jacket] worn inside also began to change little by little.

The jeogori [Korean jacket], which was also made in a free size like the wonsam and boasted tremendous generosity and length, began to shrink.

The bottom of the jeogori, which used to go down to almost the hip line, rose to the waistline, and the sleeves, which not only covered the back of the hand but also covered the entire hand and still had nearly a span left, were reduced to the level of slightly covering the back of the hand, and the width was also reduced.

The skirt was the same. The width and length were greatly reduced. In addition to being reduced, horizontal pleats were made on the front, making the front slightly lifted.

In that way, the mujigichima [rainbow skirt]—named because the colors of the skirt tiers were all different, resembling a rainbow—was worn slightly revealed through the lifted front.

In addition, if men had hats, women had jeonmo [a type of Korean hat] and neoul [a veil or shawl].

Of course, the real final boss was separate.

As the economy improved, the neoul of wealthy noble families gradually became more colorful.

At first, silk or gauze was placed over the jeonmo, but before long, silk or gauze was attached to the end of the jeonmo. The jeonmo that appeared in that way was painted with colorful floral patterns.

There were also changes in the silk and gauze attached to the end.

Those with high status wore black silk or gauze, while those with low status wore blue silk or gauze, but the colors of the silk and gauze gradually became more diverse.

When a fully armed woman took to the streets following these changing trends, she attracted the attention of the surrounding men.

A tall woman wearing suhye [flower shoes] or danghye [Tang shoes] with high heels, wearing clothes that slightly revealed her figure, moved her steps. The sight of a woman with the mujigichima slightly visible through the slightly lifted front and the suhye or danghye slightly visible with each step was very attractive.

Of course, it cost a considerable amount to fully arm oneself in this way. Therefore, a petition was filed stating that women’s extravagance was severe and should be cracked down on, but Sejong [King of Joseon] did not accept it.

-It is women’s nature to pursue beauty. It is not right to force this. Only teach and learn to know how to be frugal.

The answer to the petition was given in that way, but Sejong glared at Hyang and asked.

“Is this you?”

“Absolutely not!”

Hyang strongly denied Sejong’s question. However, Sejong and the ministers’ eyes were full of disbelief.

Seeing their expressions, Hyang shouted inwardly.

‘This damn world where trust has disappeared! Women’s clothing is not my area of expertise! I am wronged!’

The only thing Hyang challenged regarding women’s clothing culture was the gache (加髢) [a large wig traditionally worn by Korean women].

* * *

After the hundredth day of the children born after terribly long labor pains and things had calmed down to some extent, Hyang, who had returned from Area 51 and entered Donggungjeon [the Crown Prince’s residence], became serious when she saw the court physicians and female doctors paying their respects to her.

“What’s going on? Is there a problem with the children?”

“Ah, no. The Consort and Princesses were complaining of sore necks, so we gave them some acupuncture.”

“Sore necks? I see. Well, are they feeling better now?”

“Yes.”

“You’ve worked hard.”

Hyang sent the court physicians and female doctors away and headed to where the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje were.

It was a bit against the rules, but the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje were co-parenting.

It was thanks to the fact that the three were born on the same day and at the same time.

Most of the childcare was done by the court ladies and palace maids anyway, but the three women still gathered in one place to look after the babies and strengthen their friendship.

Watching that scene, Hyang muttered to herself.

“Since Jinpyeong and Anpyeong are also there, Donggungjeon will be noisy soon.”

Jinpyeong and Anpyeong had also recently given birth to sons in succession. As Hyang had said, ‘Donggungjeon Mafia,’ the Crown Princess, Yangwon, Yangje, and Jinpyeong and Anpyeong’s wives were on good terms. Therefore, it was certain that they would flock to Donggungjeon once the babies safely passed their first birthdays and were able to go outside.

* * *

“I heard you received acupuncture. Are you alright now?”

At Hyang’s question, the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje lowered their heads and answered.

“We are alright now.”

“That’s a relief. But why did your necks suddenly hurt?”

The Crown Princess answered on behalf of them.

“I recently got a new gache [large wig], and it seems it was a bit heavy.”

“The gache was heavy? Could it be that Yangwon and Yangje too?”

At Hyang’s question, Yangwon and Yangje answered in a barely audible voice.

“That is so.”

Hearing the women’s answers, Hyang muttered to herself without realizing it.

“Why spend money on something that’s not good for your neck….”

Instantly, the expressions of all the women in the room changed. Seeing those expressions, Hyang shouted inwardly.

‘I, I! I’ve seen that expression before! I really have!’

* * *

When Hyang was living in the 21st century, Hyang’s mother had spent a fortune to get a new luxury bag. When her mother was showing off her new bag, Hyang’s father said one thing.

“Why bother with something that doesn’t even look that expensive….”

Instantly, Hyang’s mother’s face changed fiercely. And, her mother’s strike lasted for fifteen days, and Hyang’s father and Hyang had to take care of their own meals and laundry.

And, the expressions of the women sitting in the Donggungjeon room now were the same as the expression her mother had made back then.

* * *

Thanks to Hyang’s immediate apology after sensing the danger signal, the situation ended there.

However, Hyang couldn’t just let it go.

“If what I’ve heard is true, the gache has a lot of problems, so I think I need to fix it.”

Gossip about gache was even on TV. The most famous of these was that a young bride had died from a broken neck because she couldn’t bear the weight of the gache.

That wasn’t considered a joke, and looking at the gache worn by the women of the palace, including Queen Soheon, it was almost a ja [a traditional Korean unit of measurement, approximately 30cm] in height. It wasn’t just rising upwards, but covering the entire head, and various decorations were added to it.

If you calculated the weight, it was entirely possible to die from a broken neck.

In the end, Hyang went to find Sejong.

“You’re saying to ban the gache? It’s surprising to hear you say something should be banned.”

At Sejong’s words, Hyang muttered inwardly.

‘I have a lot, okay? I said to ban discrimination against the Northwest, I also said to ban discrimination against illegitimate children, I also said to ban discrimination against scholars, farmers, artisans, and merchants, and so on and so forth….’

“Anyway, what’s the reason for suddenly bringing up the story of banning the gache?”

Hyang, who had been grumbling inwardly, stopped complaining at the question Sejong had thrown and answered immediately.

“The Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje recently received acupuncture because of the gache.”

“I heard about it too. So, when I looked into it, I heard that many women in the Inner Court were getting acupuncture for similar reasons.”

“That’s exactly why. It is women’s nature to pursue beauty, but they should not harm their health because of it. And moderate extravagance helps life, but excessive extravagance ruins life. Gache is excessive extravagance, so it must be banned.”

“Hmm….”

Sejong, stroking his beard at Hyang’s words, looked back at the ministers.

“I’ve heard that gache are expensive, but how expensive are they?”

At Sejong’s question, Kim Jeom answered immediately.

“The cheapest one can buy 7-8 slaves.”

“Indeed, it has gone too far. Then, is it good to ban it?”

At Sejong’s words, the ministers all had troubled faces.

“If you simply think about it, it is reasonable to ban it, but….”

“But….”

The ministers and Sejong all trailed off. When Hyang was about to open her mouth at the sight, Lee Jik looked at Hyang and said.

“There is a saying, ‘If the family is in harmony, all things will prosper.’” (家和萬事成) [A common Korean proverb emphasizing the importance of family harmony.]

Instantly, Hyang’s mouth was firmly shut.

‘The 21st century or now!’

In the end, banning the gache failed.