Black Corporation: Joseon [EN]: Chapter 338

338. Fashion Revolution (6)

As men’s hair washing parlors gained popularity, women’s hair washing parlors began to spring up like mushrooms after rain.

While wealthy noblewomen could have their servant girls wash their hair, women from less affluent families found it a cumbersome task.

Hair washing parlors were exactly what they desperately needed. What fueled the demand for these parlors was the wig.

Wigs were not exclusive to wealthy noble families.

* * *

Wigs were essential for women from ordinary families, as well as courtesans and women from households with some means.

The only differences were the size, the types of ornaments attached, and how they were worn.

Royal women and women from wealthy noble families wore extravagant wigs adorned with dazzling *tteoljam* [ornate hairpins that quiver with movement]. Women from moderately well-off common families wore *gaesumeori* or *teuremeori* wigs [types of wigs worn by common women].

First- and second-tier courtesans wore voluminous *teuremeori* wigs like hats, adorned with precious ornaments made of gold, silver, and jewels.

Even tavern owners who sold wine and food and women from poorer families styled themselves with *komeori* wigs decorated with ribbons.

(Note 1)

* * *

With this widespread use of wigs, hygiene was a more significant issue for women in the lower classes than for the upper class who wore *eoyeomeori* wigs [large, elaborate wigs worn by upper-class women].

*Eoyeomeori* wigs were separate from the wearer’s own hair and were put on later. However, *teuremeori* and *komeori* wigs were attached by weaving them into the wearer’s own hair.

Therefore, women who wore *teuremeori* and *komeori* wigs could only wash their hair while it was still styled, or after removing the hairpin and braiding it loosely.

It was due to these circumstances that hair washing parlors for women became popular.

A slight difference between women’s and men’s hair washing parlors was the necessity of having a basket to hold the unfastened wig.

* * *

“Why can’t they give up something so uncomfortable…?”

Hyang grumbled, pursing his lips whenever he saw this situation. However, he never voiced such opinions in the presence of women.

He remembered the time he had carelessly spoken and was met with the murderous aura the women emitted, which quickly silenced him.

“Wigs or topknots… what’s with all the pride…?”

Just as women competed with the size of their wigs and the ornaments attached to them, men with some means competed with things related to their topknots [traditional hairstyle where the hair is gathered on top of the head].

Although the *gwan* [formal hat] used to keep the topknot from unraveling was only allowed for royalty, even the *manggeon* [horsehair headband], which had recently become fashionable, was an expensive item.

This was because the material used to make the *manggeon* was horsehair.

Men without money would tie their topknots and wear headbands made of cotton or hemp, or simply go around with a plain topknot.

The men’s competition started with the *manggeon*.

The competition revolved around the material of the *gwanja* [knobs] that secured the *dangjul* [cords] of the *manggeon*, the size and material of the *pungjam* [chin rest] that served as a chin rest to prevent the *gat* [traditional Korean hat] from flying off in the wind, the material of the *donggot* [hairpin], which could be called a men’s hairpin, and the material of the *saljjeokmiri*, which pushed the *saljjeok* [sideburns] that protruded from under the *manggeon* back in.

In addition, the noblemen competed over what material the decorative strings attached to the *gat* hat were made of.

Those without money used bamboo or wood scraps, but the wealthier they were, the more they used expensive jewels such as gold, silver, jade, or coral.

Of course, Hyang, as the Crown Prince, wore a splendid *gwan* and *manggeon* that required a considerable investment.

Looking at his topknot adorned with gold, silver, and various jewels, Hyang chuckled and muttered.

“‘Casually chic’ is the same now as it was in the 21st century…”

* * *

People using various accessories to show off was the same now as it was in the 21st century.

If men and women in Joseon showed off with topknots and wigs, in the 21st century it was with watches and luxury bags.

In particular, in order for 21st-century men to boast of their success, they had to have several expensive manual wristwatches.

There were plenty of reasonably priced, perfectly fitting quartz watches and digital watches, and the 21st century was full of hipsters showing off their individuality with various kinds of smartwatches.

However, on the wrists of men who were recognized as successful by everyone were manual wristwatches boasting history and tradition.

Even if they didn’t wear them at all or wore smartwatches on a regular basis, it was an unwritten rule to wear manual wristwatches to official events or places where they needed to show off.

The rule was to show this off not just by showing it off, but by looking “casually chic.”

In the case of men, it was proper to subtly show it off by sweeping their hair back or stroking their chin with a serious face. In the case of women, it was proper to casually place their bag on the table or carry it in their hand while walking.

The same was true in Joseon.

The basic etiquette for women was to greet visitors with an indifferent face without showing off their wigs adorned with fancy ornaments, and for men, it was to subtly show off by lightly lifting their *gat* hat and looking into the distance.

* * *

While Hyang was grumbling at the seemingly unchanging subjects of wigs and topknots, Joseon society was continuing to change.

The biggest change was that fabrics of various colors began to be distributed in large quantities to fabric shops throughout Joseon.

* * *

For generations, the Korean people had been known for their preference for white clothing. This preference was even recorded in the Records of the Three Kingdoms, Book of Wei, Account of the Eastern Barbarians.

However, in contrast, the murals of Goguryeo tombs and the Portraits of Periodical Offering of Liang depict people wearing brightly colored clothes.

However, after the Joseon Dynasty was established, the order to “not wear white clothes” was issued several times from the reign of Taejo, but the people insisted on wearing white.

However, in recent years, dyed fabrics began to be distributed in large quantities.

Hyang, who received the report, tilted his head.

“Why?”

Unable to overcome his curiosity, Hyang investigated the reason.

After searching through a huge amount of records and pondering, Hyang came to the most plausible conclusion.

“As expected… is it because people have enough to eat and live?”

That was the most likely reason.

Mulling over the conclusion he had reached, Hyang turned his gaze to the distance and muttered.

“It reminds me of Teacher Samcheopo after a long time…”

* * *

Teacher Samcheopo, who was in the middle of a class, digressed again.

“We call our people the ‘White-Clad People,’ but if you look at the related records, we also wore colored clothes well, right? But why are we called the ‘White-Clad People’? According to the records, from the time of King Taejo of Joseon, the order to ‘not wear white clothes’ was constantly issued, but if you look at the writings and photos recorded by foreigners at the end of the Korean Empire, everyone is only wearing white. If you only look at this, you can’t help but think that our people are addicted to white.

But let’s think about it a little differently.

The biggest reason why the king told us not to wear white clothes is based on the Five Elements [a philosophical concept used to explain a wide array of phenomena].

Since Joseon is located east of China, the reason is that wearing blue clothes according to the Five Elements is in accordance with etiquette. But why did the people wear white clothes?

If you look at the times when records were officially left, it was the late Goryeo and early Joseon periods, and the late Joseon period. What do these times have in common? It’s when things were completely destroyed due to war and recovery was barely underway.

When it’s hard to make a living right away, would you be dyeing clothes? Look at the end of the Korean Empire.

What was right before that?

There was the Sedo Politics period [a period of political corruption and instability in late Joseon]. It was a time when people were struggling to make a living and even riots broke out.

And during the subsequent Japanese colonial period, we only wore white clothes because we hated the sight of the Japanese bastards telling us to wear colored clothes.

So, my conclusion is this.

Our people aren’t perverts who go crazy when they see only white.

It’s just that we didn’t have the economic means, so we ended up wearing the easiest-to-maintain white clothes.

It costs a lot of money to dye white, but if you boil it in lye water a few times, a very good white color comes out. (Note 3) If you doubt it, look at Shin Yunbok’s paintings right now. Do the women in the paintings only wear white…”

Teacher Samcheopo, who was explaining his own theory in that way, digressed even further.

“Ah, damn it! Talking about colors reminds me of an infuriating memory. It was a contribution from a Japanese sociologist that I saw in the library when I was in college. While criticizing the ‘Body Conscious (mini dress that completely clings to the body)’ fashion that was popular in Japan at the time, he rambled on like this.

‘As you can see from the roofs of the royal palaces and temples of the past Joseon, and the elegant lines of Hanbok [traditional Korean clothing], Joseon had lines, and Japan had gorgeous colors, as you can see from the kimono. But now I feel bitter that it seems to be going in the opposite direction.’

Do you know what the first thought I had when I read this article was?

‘Are this bastard’s eyes just decorations? He saw the roofs of the royal palaces and temples, but didn’t he see the *dancheong* [traditional Korean decorative coloring on wooden buildings] underneath? What nonsense are people who couldn’t even wear proper clothes until the Tang Dynasty talking about?’ If you’re curious, Google Yangjikgongdo [a painting depicting envoys from various countries].”

* * *

After confirming that Joseon’s clothing was changing little by little, Hyang immediately visited Sejong.

“…Create a ‘Joseon Clothing Illustrated Book’ that records the clothing of Joseon now? Why?”

In response to Sejong’s question, Hyang immediately explained the reason.

“The clothes worn by our Joseon people are clothes that incorporate the traditions that have been passed down from the old Samhan [ancient Korean kingdoms] for a short time, and from the old Joseon [Gojoseon, the first Korean kingdom] for a long time. However, just as the clothes of that time are not exactly the same as the clothes of today, clothing continues to change. Therefore, we must record this so that our descendants in the distant future can properly know the principles behind how this clothing came about.”

“Hmm…”

At Hyang’s words, Sejong stroked his beard and pondered.

Heo Jo, who was listening to Hyang’s proposal, questioned Hyang’s words.

“Even a child knows that our clothing contains traditions from ancient times. Nevertheless, wouldn’t recording this be unnecessary?”

Hyang immediately responded to Heo Jo’s criticism.

“As time passes, there will be those who insist that our things are their own.”

“Yes?”

While Heo Jo and the other officials were expressing their doubts at Hyang’s words, Sejong interjected.

“Are you perhaps worried about *Goryeoyang* [Korean style fashion that became popular in Yuan China]?”

‘As expected, Father! Sejong the Great!’

Hyang nodded immediately with a look of delight.

“That’s right! Our clothing has been widely spread in China since the Yuan Dynasty. Therefore, we must clearly reveal this! In the distant future, they will insist that our clothing was also passed down by them, based on the fact that we were vassals.”

Heo Jo retorted again at Hyang’s words.

“But the word *Goryeoyang* itself…”

“What will you do if they insist that the Goryeo thing itself came from China?”

Heo Jo’s mouth was shut by Hyang’s question, which was thrown in while interrupting his words.

Hyang continued to emphasize that it was something that must be done.

“*Goryeoyang* has been spreading in China since the Yuan Dynasty, and our clothing and culture have been spreading to Waeguk (Japan) through the Daenai family! Myeong (Ming Dynasty) and Waegu (Japan) will not admit this even because of their pride. Therefore, we must leave this in advance as documents and pictures to create clear evidence. We must clearly record and distinguish what came from Myeong as what came from Myeong in order to prevent future unreasonable claims.”

In the end, Sejong accepted Hyang’s argument.

“It is clear that it will take a lot of time and effort, but it is appropriate to leave it as a definite record. Considering the nature of the work, it seems best for the Ministry of Education to take the lead. The other ministries should also do their best to assist in the smooth progress of the work.”

At Sejong’s order, the officials bowed their heads and answered.

“We obey the order.”

And the historians were recording all of this.

Hyang, who was bowing his head with the officials, glanced at the historians and clenched his fist hidden in his sleeve.

‘That’s it! An official record has been left!’

* * *

“Hoo~.”

Jo Gye-saeng, who had left Geunjeongjeon Hall after the meeting, sighed as he looked at the distant sky.

Meng Sa-seong, who was passing by, comforted him at the sight.

“Cheer up, Lord. It will be a difficult task, but there will be support from other departments, so it won’t be too difficult.”

At Meng Sa-seong’s words, Jo Gye-saeng’s face became gloomy.

“I have a feeling that it won’t end with just clothing, but that it’s just the beginning.”

“Ah…”

* * *

(Note 1)

https://m.blog.naver.com/nadakik/221060642371

(Note 2)

You can see the women bathing in Shin Yunbok’s Dano Pungjeong.

(Note 3)

http://pub.chosun.com/client/news/viw.asp?cate=C03&nNewsNumb=20150417129&nidx=17167