Black Corporation: Joseon [EN]: Chapter 847

847. The Empire’s Daily Life (6)

The *hufu* (胡服) [nomadic clothing], entered the Empire—then known as Joseon—when the Jurchens began residing in Hanseong [present-day Seoul].

As the chieftains and high-ranking officials of the Jurchens, who had submitted to Joseon, received positions in the central government and stayed in Hanseong, the residents of Hanseong were exposed to the Jurchens’ *hufu*.

The initial reaction of the Joseon people to the *hufu* was rather indifferent.

“The clothes look a bit stuffy…”

“They would be comfortable for riding horses.”

As reflected in the Joseon people’s reaction at the time, the *hufu* was clothing born from necessity for the nomadic Jurchens.

To prevent wind from seeping in, the neck and chest areas were tightly closed, and the sides were open for easy mounting and dismounting of horses.

The usual attire consisted of wearing skirts or pants for women and pants for men under the *hufu* top.

The wearing of skirts and pants by Jurchen women was also a symbol of status.

Upper-class women, who rarely rode horses, wore skirts, while lower-class women, who had to move around a lot, generally wore pants.

Therefore, the *hufu* didn’t cause a sensation in the fashion world. Even the picky *sadaebu* (士大夫) [scholar-officials] saw no major problems with the *hufu*.

Rather, what the *sadaebu* detested were the foot-binding customs of Ming Dynasty women.

It was the women of the Imperial family, or more precisely, Hyang, who turned this *hufu* into a sensation in the fashion world.

* * *

Inspired by the modified riding breeches that were popular among Western upper-class women in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Hyang had been steadily working on clothing reform.

Ironically, it started with the most basic problem: using the restroom.

“Goodness! There are so many cumbersome layers! I’ll end up having to relieve myself while trying to manage all these clothes!”

Because of this fundamental inconvenience, Hyang was quite diligent in reforming clothing.

Thanks to Hyang’s efforts, the attire of the Joseon people, and later the Imperial people, continued to change.

However, even Hyang had difficulty with women’s clothing.

Even the abolition of *gache* (加髢) [wigs], which she had been most enthusiastic about, ended in only partial success.

The large and heavy *gache* and *eoyeomeori* (어여머리) [elaborate wig-like hairstyle], which were said to have broken the necks of new brides, had almost disappeared, but *jokdu-ri* (족두리) [small coronets] and *cheopji* (첩지) [ornamental hairpins] were used to create *jojim-meori* (조짐머리) [a type of hairstyle], and the *gache* stubbornly maintained its vitality.

* * *

Besides the *gache*, another thing Hyang couldn’t easily change was women’s underwear.

“Aren’t they uncomfortable…”

Hyang grumbled inwardly whenever she saw the Crown Princess, Yangje, and Yangwon in their underwear in the royal chambers.

Starting with the *dari-sokgot* (다리속곳) [leggings], which could be considered similar to 21st-century panties, women of the *sadaebu* wore four layers of underwear under their skirts, while common women wore three layers. For the upper garment, it was common to wear several layers, starting with *sok-jeoksam* (속적삼) [undershirt] and *sok-jeogori* (속저고리) [under-jacket].

Of course, the poor, who could not afford to wear so many layers, only had a *jeoksam* and *sokbaji* (속바지) [underpants].

However, women from households with some financial means wore at least that many layers, regardless of their social status.

To make matters worse, women from the royal family or high-ranking officials sometimes wore more than ten layers of underwear bottoms. Of course, the main culprit for increasing the number of layers, the *mujigi* (무지기) [a type of layered skirt], was worn by tying the layered skirts together for easy wearing and removal, but that didn’t mean that seven or eight layers became one layer.

This was why Hyang grumbled.

“The process is so long… At this rate, dawn will break.”

Hyang grumbled inwardly every time she entered the royal chambers with the Queen and the concubines.

It was because of this that Hyang would mutter to herself whenever she saw the *hufu* of the Jurchen couple attending the banquets held by Sejong and paying their respects.

‘Cheongsam [a type of Chinese dress] with black stockings would be a cheat code… Adding garters and a pistol would be the complete package… Whether it’s live-action or animation…’

As an aside, there were rumors about Hyang staring intently at the Jurchen women.

“Could it be that the Crown Prince is interested in Jurchen women?”

“Surely not? He has only taken the Crown Princess, Yangje, and Yangwon so far, hasn’t he?”

“That’s right. He initially said he would only have one Crown Princess, but he barely managed to have three due to His Majesty’s insistence.”

“The Crown Prince is also a man. Who knows?”

“Hmm…”

Eventually, this rumor reached Sejong’s ears, and Sejong immediately summoned Hyang.

“I will ask you frankly. Perhaps…”

Before Sejong could finish his words, Hyang hurriedly replied.

“Ah, no! I am merely interested in their attire!”

“…I will take it as such.”

Sejong, who replied with a strange expression, sent Hyang out. As he watched Hyang paying respects and leaving, Sejong muttered to himself.

“But it’s a bit of a shame. Bringing in Jurchen women would be a politically sound move…”

* * *

Later, after Joseon became an Empire and Hyang became the Emperor, he muttered with a strange smile.

“I’ve gathered all the ingredients appropriately…”

Sitting alone in his royal chamber, Hyang muttered meaningful words and ordered the eunuch.

“Summon the head tailor of the Royal Costume Department.”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

A little later, the head tailor of the Royal Costume Department, having received the eunuch’s message, rushed in and paid his respects with a nervous expression.

“Did you summon me?”

“Yes, I have a favor to ask of you.”

At Hyang’s words, the head tailor prostrated himself on the floor and raised his voice.

“How could you ask a humble tailor for a favor! Just give me your orders.”

“I understand. Then… the scribes and historians should leave for a moment.”

After sending the historians and scribes out, Hyang opened a drawer in his desk, took out a piece of paper, and handed it to the head tailor.

“Take this.”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

The head tailor, approaching on his knees, received the paper and looked at the drawing on it, staring at Hyang with surprised eyes. It was a serious breach of etiquette to look directly at the Emperor without permission. Nevertheless, the drawing on the paper was so shocking that he forgot about it.

Seeing the head tailor’s reaction, Hyang smiled slightly and continued.

“It’s a *chim-ui* (寢衣) [nightgown] for the Empress and consorts to wear.”

“Ah…”

Nodding at Hyang’s words, the head tailor still wore a troubled expression.

“It’s unconventional.”

“Sometimes, there must be such unconventionality. Now, I will explain the materials.”

“Yes.”

At Hyang’s words, the head tailor took out paper and a stylus from his sleeve. When the head tailor was ready, Hyang began to speak.

“First, the finest silk, so thin and soft that it is see-through, and the highest quality lace made in France, and silk *stocka* (스타킹의 전신) [stockings]…”

“Yes, yes…”

As time passed, the head tailor, having written down all of Hyang’s orders, held the drawing with the design in his hand and left the royal chamber.

On the way back to the Royal Costume Department, the head tailor stopped several times to examine the drawing. Examining the drawing by the moonlight, the head tailor exclaimed.

“Wow! Looking closely, it’s *hufu*, but such a seductive *chim-ui* comes from *hufu*! There is nothing His Majesty cannot do, and he even has such refined taste!”

The head tailor, who could roughly guess what kind of clothes would come out just by looking at the design, repeatedly exclaimed in admiration.

“This will soon cause a stir in the *gyubang* (閨房) [women’s quarters] and *gibang* (妓房) [houses of courtesans] throughout the Empire!”

Predicting what would happen in the future, the head tailor’s expression suddenly hardened.

“Wait! If it goes as I expect, the royal relatives will soon find out… and if that happens, the workload…”

The head tailor, who already knew the power of the ‘Gyeongbokgung Mafia’ well, sighed.

“Hoo~. I’m swamped with work. Swamped. At least… my name will be known.”

As a quid pro quo for this work, Hyang ordered the historian to record that the head tailor had done the work under Hyang’s orders.

* * *

Following Hyang’s orders, the head tailor diligently collected the materials. To obtain the necessary materials, the Royal Costume Department, along with an interpreter, sought out a French merchant staying in Seoul.

Receiving the order through the interpreter, the French merchant’s face gradually brightened.

‘All of them are top-quality goods! How much is this all worth!’

Bowing obsequiously, the merchant asked the interpreter.

“Where should I deliver it?”

“To the Imperial Palace.”

“Gasp!”

The horrified merchant immediately replied.

“What I have now is not enough to bring to the Imperial Palace.”

“The quality of the goods is the priority, and time is secondary. But I can’t wait forever.”

“I will do my best!”

“Don’t forget. Everything must be top-quality. And it must arrive not too late.”

“Yes, yes.”

The French merchant who received the order immediately took the iron horse [likely referring to a train] and went down to Mokpo. Boarding the fastest departing merchant ship in Mokpo, the merchant immediately returned to France.

In a normal situation, he would have only sent a message, but the merchant chose to move himself.

‘It’s a delivery to the Imperial Palace of the Empire! If it goes well, I can make a fortune from then on!’

As a merchant who had confirmed the power of word-of-mouth while staying in the Empire, it was an opportunity he could never miss.

* * *

Although it took time, the head tailor, having obtained all the materials, immediately began working.

The head tailor personally oversaw every process, starting with dyeing the *stocka* and lace black.

Having successfully completed the first stage of work, the head tailor put his heart and soul into cutting and sewing the silk, and applying gold leaf.

Finally, having finished all the work and made three *chim-ui*, the head tailor clenched his fist and shouted.

“There is nothing more I can do! I did my best!”

Satisfied with his results, the head tailor sought out a eunuch.

“Please inform His Majesty.”

“I understand.”

Hyang, having heard the story through the eunuch, visited the Royal Costume Department himself. After confirming the results, Hyang greatly praised the head tailor and the tailors and ordered the eunuch.

“Deliver them to the Empress and Imperial Consorts.”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

The tailors who received the order carefully packaged the *chim-ui* and handed them to the eunuch. Watching the eunuchs carrying the packaged *chim-ui* to the Empress and Imperial Consorts, Hyang wore a satisfied expression.

“Since they already have good foundations… Heu-heum!”

Muttering meaningful words, Hyang immediately turned around.

“Now! Today is unconditionally quitting time!”

* * *

That night, Hyang visited the Empress’s chamber.

“Your Majesty, would you mind turning off the lights…”

“Let’s look a little more.”

The Empress, unable to overcome her embarrassment at the sight of Hyang looking at her wearing the *chim-ui* with a satisfied expression, shifted uncomfortably.

“Ha, however, such attire is not in accordance with etiquette…”

“When we sleep together, have we ever dressed properly and observed etiquette?”

At Hyang’s words, the Empress immediately lowered her head with a flushed face. As Hyang said, the two had never properly put on *chim-ui* and slept together when they slept together.

Either Hyang, exhausted from fatigue, couldn’t even take off the clothes he was wearing and slept as he was, or he slept without wearing anything.

Anyway, that night, the two had a ‘hot night’ for the first time in a long time. No, it wasn’t just the Empress. The two Imperial Consorts were the same.

It was good up to that point, but afterwards, Hyang called the royal physician and applied a poultice to his waist.

However, there were other unfortunate victims. It was the *jimil-sanggung* (至密尙宮) [ladies-in-waiting] and the chief eunuch who always had to stay near Hyang.

Blocking the flowing nosebleeds, the *jimil-sanggung* muttered to herself.

“I wondered why the person in charge of the East Palace used to have frequent nosebleeds…”