Black Label 56
57. Reason for Change
Paris, France.
A café named ‘HolyBelly,’ located near the Saint-Martin Canal.
Geraldine, an editor from *Vogue*, and Melanie, a junior editor, were sitting face to face, enjoying a leisurely brunch.
“Geraldine.”
“Yes?”
“What made you suddenly decide to go to Korea?”
“Didn’t I say it was to see a show?”
“No, I mean…”
Melanie trailed off, sighed deeply, and continued.
“What was that brand called again?”
“Wallflower.”
“Right, Wallflower.”
Melanie nodded once, narrowed her brows slightly, and continued.
“It’s a brand that’s not even properly known yet, right?”
“That’s right.”
“A brand that hasn’t even entered the domestic collection [French fashion market].”
“Yes, that’s correct.”
“But why…”
Melanie poured out her words with a somewhat passionate tone, then immediately swallowed the rest. She felt she needed to calm down a bit.
“Everyone’s time is precious, but Geraldine’s time is especially so.”
“Yes.”
“I don’t know what potential you saw, but if I were Geraldine, I would have watched the show of a proven brand instead.”
“Is that so?”
“Geraldine, why are you so insistent on that brand? If it’s just a brand with potential, there are plenty in France, right?”
Among the editors of Paris *Vogue*, Geraldine’s reputation is by far the highest.
Her unique, intellectual, and insightful articles and columns, a brilliant career, and a fashion sense that naturally evokes the term ‘Girl Crush’.
She is not only an editor of *Vogue* but also a celebrity in her own right.
For someone like Geraldine to head to a distant foreign land to see the show of a newborn designer brand that no one has ever heard of is, in itself, a shocking event.
And here’s another factor.
The week that the new designer brand ‘Wallflower’ is holding its show overlaps with the period when several famous brands are holding their F/W [Fall/Winter] season shows.
“Melanie, from ‘Alexander King’ to ‘Valentino’, and even ‘Balmung’, which Geraldine usually enjoys wearing, their F/W season show periods overlap, you know that, right?”
“Of course. I know that, obviously.”
Melanie replied curtly, chewing on the scrambled eggs she had in her mouth. Suddenly, she exclaimed, “Ah!” and put down the fork she was holding, continuing.
“Geraldine, come to think of it, aren’t you close to the head designer of Balmung?”
“Decarnin?”
“Yes. Decarnin will surely be disappointed too.”
Geraldine pondered for a moment, nodded once, and replied quietly.
“But I can’t help it. I have a reason why I must meet the owner designer of that brand.”
“A reason you must meet?”
“Yes. I’ve become curious. A curiosity that I feel I must resolve.”
Geraldine replied briefly, wearing a relaxed expression, and began to gaze intently out the window.
‘Fixed Gear’ bicycles parked in the bicycle rack in front of the store. Pedestrians leisurely strolling along the street, and cars occasionally passing by.
The streets on a Monday morning were truly calm and quiet.
Melanie, who was watching her, also lowered her head and began to focus on eating the brunch that was still piled high on her plate.
She sensed that asking any more related questions would only turn into meaningless inquiries anyway.
Come to think of it, Geraldine was originally that kind of person. Once she became fixated on something, no one could change her mind.
Melanie then spoke, as if resigned.
“Well, I hope that brand doesn’t disappoint Geraldine.”
It was a sincere remark. No, she was rather hoping that this show would be a historic moment in the birth of a great brand.
The shows of premium brands like ‘Balmung’ will be held next year, or even in six months, but the historic moment of a new premium brand being born only happens once in the brand’s lifetime.
If that were to happen, at least her efforts, and the ripple effect of the *Vogue* name that follows like a shadow, would not feel wasted at all.
‘Right. Geraldine is giving up even Balmung’s show to go, so it has to be that good.’
However, such an anomaly never happens easily. It has always been that way, and it will continue to be so.
* * *
The reason why Geraldine, an editor at Paris *Vogue*, changed her mind was due to a small incident that had occurred just a few days prior.
Back then, she was struggling with a busy schedule due to the deadline week.
She visited the studio to oversee the photoshoot that would be included in her article, and there she encountered a top model belonging to one of the world’s leading model agencies, ‘Metropolitan Models’.
“Arthur, it’s been a while.”
“Oh, Geraldine! It’s been so long!”
The young male model called ‘Arthur’ gave Geraldine a warm hug.
‘Arthur Gosse’.
He was a very professional model who had worked with Geraldine several times before.
His affiliation already guaranteed his skills.
Despite being quite young, in his early twenties, his stock was still on the rise, backed by a brilliant career.
Standing at the entrance of the studio, chatting idly for a while, the clothes Arthur was wearing caught Geraldine’s attention.
“Arthur, your outfit today is amazing.”
“Do you think it looks good, Geraldine?”
“Yes. It suits you really well.”
Geraldine replied quietly, then looked up and down at the clothes Arthur was wearing once more, and asked.
“It’s really amazing that these are all clothes I’ve never seen before.”
From the jeans with paint splattered in various places to add accents, to the leather jacket with a very sophisticated silhouette and glossy material, and finally the sweatshirt worn underneath.
All of them were streetwear with a feeling that wasn’t excessive, no, rather a very restrained feeling.
What should I say?
It felt like it was made by a designer who knew the appropriate balance that would prevent the general public from feeling alienated.
This is a sense that street brand designers must have and a sense that they must study for a lifetime.
Geraldine narrowed her brows slightly and asked.
“Arthur, if you don’t mind me asking, can I know which brand’s clothes they are?”
Although she doesn’t particularly favor streetwear, she made sure to check out the ‘Lookbook’ issued by quite a famous street brand every year.
But she had no memory of seeing such clothes in the street brand’s lookbook this year or last year.
However, to think of it as clothes from before that, it felt too sophisticated.
Arthur replied with a faint smile.
“You probably wouldn’t know it.”
When Geraldine looked at him as if she was wondering, Arthur continued to speak.
“A friend who gave it to me as a gift said that they were designed by an unknown designer from the East.”
“An unknown designer from the East?”
“Yes. It’s a gift from an Asian fashion blogger friend who works in Milan. What was that designer’s name…”
Arthur repeatedly muttered, “Li, Li…” as if trying to remember, then shook his head and continued.
“Oh, dear. I can’t remember the designer’s name.”
“Then what about the brand name?”
“Um, just a moment. I think I’ll have to take off my jacket and check the tag.”
As soon as Arthur took off his jacket, the sweatshirt he was wearing underneath caught Geraldine’s attention.
No, to be more precise, the ‘phrase’ printed on the sweatshirt caught Geraldine’s attention.
– Different or Die
‘Nice saying.’
At least, it’s a saying that is in no way lacking for a designer to adopt as a slogan.
Geraldine was looking intently at the printed phrase with a pleased smile.
“It’s Wallflower.”
Geraldine frowned deeply and asked quietly.
“Wallflower?”
“Yes. Why?”
“It’s a brand name I feel like I’ve heard somewhere…”
Geraldine trailed off, then smiled and added again.
“Thank you, Arthur. I have something to review, so I’ll go in first.”
“Ah, yes. See you at the meeting.”
As Geraldine hurriedly started walking towards the studio, Arthur smiled faintly and muttered quietly as if reciting.
“Geraldine always seems busy…”
* * *
After leaving Arthur behind, the first thing Geraldine checked after entering the studio was to search for information about the new brand ‘Wallflower’.
Using the laptop in the studio, she searched for the keyword ‘Wallflower’ on Google.
Most of it was about movies or novels of the same name, but occasionally she could see photos of products released by the brand Wallflower.
‘Hmm, they clearly said they were planning to hold a show with the theme of minimalism…’
Minimalism.
It was the key keyword that she guessed would be the trend for this season and the next season.
That’s why she clearly remembered.
According to the information in the email he sent, they were clearly planning to hold a show with the theme of minimalism.
But, were they originally a street brand?
If so, what was the reason for suddenly changing the theme of this F/W season to ‘minimalism’?
Simple coincidence?
‘No, it’s not a coincidence…’
Designers who challenge various fields are often seen, but that is a choice given only to those who have reached a certain level or higher.
It’s a challenge that a newborn brand that has just started has too much to lose.
It’s also unlikely that they hurriedly changed the concept to follow the trend.
‘Right. That doesn’t make sense…’
Apart from herself, some critics, columnists, and magazine editors may be guessing about the ‘minimalism’ trend that will soon emerge.
But, at least for now, no one has announced the above fact. It’s a state where you can’t follow even if you try to follow.
“Um, Geraldine? It’s almost time…”
“Sorry, just a moment.”
Geraldine firmly cut off the photographer’s words and continued to look at her laptop screen.
Soon.
“As expected…”
Geraldine muttered quietly, wearing a satisfied smile.
Until now, all the clothes released by Wallflower were streetwear. Although the specific themes and concepts were different, the essence of ‘street’ was the same.
Nevertheless, the fact that they adopted ‘minimalism’ as the concept for this season?
The owner designer of Wallflower must have made the same prediction as herself.
Also, it seemed that they had not only predicted it but also changed their plans.
He was clearly an ambitious person with the goal of developing his brand into a premium brand.
And it was clear that he had the insight that was in no way lacking to realize it.
Geraldine nodded once, as if solidifying the decision she had just made, and repeated in her mind.
‘Right. I have to go to Korea.’
“What’s wrong, Geraldine? Is something wrong?”
Geraldine shook her head once at the photographer’s worried question and replied.
“No, it’s nothing. Let’s start with the meeting first.”
Geraldine closed her laptop and picked up her clutch bag that she had put down for a while.
A subtle smile with a hint of anticipation was on her lips.
* * *
As soon as Jae-seung opened the office door, the employees who had come to work earlier greeted Jae-seung.
Jae-seung replied in a bright voice, “Good morning!” and then shook the paper bag in his hand and said.
“The invitation samples are out, would you like to see them?”
At those words, the employees stood up one by one and began to ask questions.
“Invitations?”
“Already?”
Jae-seung nodded once and replied.
“Yes. I just proceeded and produced it alone this time.”
He didn’t want to put any unnecessary burden on the employees who were focusing on product design, so he handled it alone.
A plausible idea came to mind quickly, and the result was quite satisfactory.
At that time, Lee Kang-joon, who had just received the paper bag, took out the contents and began to examine them carefully.
Soon.
“Wow, amazing…!”
“Why? How is it? I want to see too.”
“Hey, hyung [older brother/male friend]! Me too!”
The invitation for this 2011 F/W season show was not made using ‘paper’, but an invitation made using ‘fabric’.
Although the unit price would rise a lot, it was a method adopted because it was judged that it would be impressive for those who visited the show.
“How is it? Do you think it’s okay?”
The employees who checked the invitation replaced their answers by uttering exclamations one by one.
Jae-seung clapped his hands once and continued to speak.
“Since everyone seems to be satisfied, I will proceed with the invitation as it is. Now! Then, the second thing to convey.”
Just as the employees were staring at Jae-seung with curious eyes.
“I finished the venue rental today. Now, everyone, don’t worry and just focus on product design.”
As soon as Jae-seung’s words were finished, the employees began to show enthusiastic reactions.
“Can’t you show us the pictures?!”
“Already?! Where is it located?”
“No, boss! If you tell us the name of the gallery, we’ll find it ourselves.”
As questions began to pour in, Jae-seung smiled and replied quietly.
“Um, actually, the place I rented isn’t a gallery. The location is near the office, and you can just think of it as an ordinary commercial building.”
“Yes? A commercial building…?”
When Lee Kang-joon asked back as if he was wondering, Jae-seung nodded once and replied in a rather low voice.
“Yes. It’s a very suitable place for us to hold a show.”
Everyone except ‘Nam Gwang-min’ looked puzzled, but he didn’t bother to explain.
If there was one thing that was certain, it was that everything was progressing smoothly.
Jae-seung, as if satisfied, nodded slightly and looked at Nam Gwang-min and asked.
“Gwang-min, I think I’ll have to go around here and there with you this afternoon, is that okay?”
“Ah, yes!”
Jae-seung then looked around at the employees and briefly explained the reason.
“It’s not that, the idea of holding a show in a commercial building. It was actually Gwang-min’s idea.”
That evening, on the day he received a unilateral contract termination notice from ‘Gallery Titi’, it was Nam Gwang-min who carefully brought up the agenda.
Throughout the conversation, he thought that perhaps his talent was more developed in the direction of ‘*VMD* (Visual Merchandiser: a position that encompasses the design of retail stores or trade shows, etc.)’ than as a designer.
Throughout his presentation of his ideas, Jae-seung couldn’t help but admire him.
Anyway, it seemed that preparations for the 2011 F/W season show were nearing the final stage.
Starting product production, selecting models, and planning the display of the venue for the show.
Among the remaining tasks, these are all the big ones.
‘Good…’
The 2011 F/W season show.
The challenge, which at first seemed reckless, was now just around the corner.
Everything is progressing according to plan, and the best audience is waiting.
This show will be a turning point.
The position of himself and his employees will change, and the public’s view of Wallflower will change.
Because most people originally value ‘how a famous person views’ a design much more than ‘design’ itself.